With over 1,500 bottles in our wine cellar, our wine expert James - who also leads our four-rosette, MICHELIN-listed restaurant Àclèaf - has poured his passion and expertise into words.
The first step in wine pairing a new dish in Àclèaf, is to identify the protein or main element of the dish. From there, you can determine if a White, Rosé or a Red wine is best suited for the meal. Next, focus on matching the dish’s flavours to a specific grape variety. At Àclèaf, we often use one primary flavour and a more subtle background element. For example, a dish like SQUAB, beetroot, and cassis calls for a red wine that complements the protein while offering a “green” touch to pair with the beetroot, and rich black fruit to balance the cassis. Cabernet Franc is the ideal variety for this, but the most important part of our wine pairing process is choosing the right region. Physical factors like sunlight, altitude, and climate influence how the wine will evolve. For Cabernet Franc, we seek a location with reduced sunlight and some altitude to keep the wine light enough for the Squab. Valle de Maipo in central Chile, nestled in the Andes, is an excellent example, where a winery cultivates specific plots to manipulate their wines. The goal is to showcase often underrated regions and expressions, providing an experience beyond simple pairings.
Although certain dishes remain on the menu across seasons, wine pairings are not fixed and may change over time. Wine is constantly evolving due to factors like vineyard conditions, growing seasons, and weather. For example, a Gewürztraminer from Alsace paired with crab, mango, and curry was perfect for one vintage, but as the weather changed, the sweetness level of the wine became too high, overpowering the crab’s delicate flavour. In this case, we shifted the pairing to an Alto Adige wine from northern Italy, where altitude and cooler conditions produced a better balance for the dish.
There is a vast range of underrated wines globally, with some hidden gems in France. Jurançon, located in the Pyrenees Mountains, is a standout region that offers unique wines made predominantly from the Manseng grape varieties, creating floral and slightly herbal finishes. Jura, another French region often overlooked, is known for its experimental style, with Vin Jaune being a particularly unique wine. Its oxidised, nutty, and earthy characteristics are perfect for food pairings, making it a favourite for those willing to explore. Beyond France, Austria and Germany offer exceptional wines that often go unnoticed. Àclèaf also highlights the work of Gerovassiliou, a winemaker reviving Greece’s ancient wine industry, which is slowly 40 making a comeback. While Australia’s mass produced wines can hurt its reputation, regions like Clare Valley in the southeast produce truly remarkable wines.
Sparkling wines are undergoing significant changes, with the Champagne region still holding a place of prominence. While traditional rules remain, there are more flexible options available, including demi-sec for sweetness and vintage Champagne for a pure expression of a particular year. For example, Laurent-Perrier’s Grand Siècle blends three different great vintages to create a unique Champagne. Additionally, English sparkling wines are gaining recognition due to changing climates. At Àclèaf, we partner with Gusbourne, a producer in Kent, and locally, Camel Valley in the South West, both of which are producing outstanding sparkling wines that will continue to improve with time.
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